Les Echos Week-End
3-4 Novembre 2017 | Jean-Francis Pécresse
Terre de Vins
Seen at Bordeaux Tasting: a second life in the heart of the vineyards
11 Décembre 2017 | Laura Bernaulte
(Photos Pierre Martinez)
Portrait of two neo-winemakers present under the bubble of Bordeaux and Superior Bordeaux this Sunday, who participated for the first time in the festival of great wines organized by "Terre de Vins".
Before, they were not winegrowers. But that was before. The Bordeaux vineyard is full of beautiful stories of reconversions in wine. Château Haut Peyrat (AOC bordeaux superior) and the Domaine de Valmengaux (AOC bordeaux), present this Sunday at “Bordeaux Tasting” are two examples of these life changes. Meet.
The desire to "take up new challenges" was imposed on Didier Gil while he was still managing the BNP. This enlightened amateur, who had "always dreamed of wine, but had not had the means before" decides to launch out in 2013. With his wife Isabelle, they are looking for a property to acquire in Bordeaux. And fall under the charm of a domain in Cambes, at the gates of Entre-Deux-Mers, with a vineyard on hillsides overlooking the Garonne and with a "magnificent terroir composed of four soils, gravels, clay-gravel, clay-limestone and pure clay ”. They acquired it in 2014, and renamed this area "Château Haut-Peyrat". The winegrower adventure is launched.
"The property was in its prime, there was everything to take back" remembers Didier Gil. Patiently, they begin a fundamental overhaul. The 20 ha vineyard (Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon) has been restructured and is now used for sustainable farming. A vat room and a cellar are created to vinify the harvest, hitherto carried out in a cooperative, and a recruited team, led by Lucas Froment, technical director (and former member of Château Haut-Bailly). No oenologist-consultant to create the wines, “in order to keep our identity and our spontaneity” specifies Didier Gil, but the precious advice of their friend Jean-Luc Zuger (and at the head of the Château Malescot Saint-Exupéry, in Margaux ).
2015, the property's first bottled vintage, was released yesterday in the bubble in two vintages, 70% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc. Two very distinct styles, the “Prélude” vintage, a blend of 25 year old vines spent 6 months in barrels (€ 9.50), fruity and easily accessible, and the great “Haut-Peyrat” wine, a blend of old vines, with a year of barrels (€ 13.90) with beautiful complexity, delicious and fresh at the same time, with a good length on the palate. With his wines, Didier Gil intends "to make it clear that in this appellation of Bordeaux superior, one can also make great wines". And it gives itself the means to get the message across. "I want to bring the brand to life by stepping up the efforts in terms of communication initiated since last May, thanks in particular to participation in numerous fairs and tastings. "And his efforts pay off:" I have good feedback at the shows, people find our wines very good and inexpensive! "He notes. Next steps, the creation of a pink and white cuvée from the 2017 vintage. And the growing openness to wine tourism. Today, the new winemaker "is having a blast and has" no regrets ", while conceding with a laugh" sometimes still drooling. "But tempers immediately by clarifying:" It is because we have important ambitions. If we were content with more average ambitions, it would be simpler! "
Chateau Haut Peyrat
Higher bordeaux. A few years of work have passed by to give new life to this property located on the heights of Cambes on the right bank and now in the hands of Isabelle and Didier Gil. This Prélude vintage bears the fruits of the work accomplished. All enhanced by this superb 2015 vintage. A garnet color, a nice nose of black fruit, a fleshy, rich and fruity mouth. The words are immediately benevolent. Here is a bottle to open now.
Price: € 9.50. 33880 Cambes.
05 57 80 47 27
La Bouteille du Mardi
20 Mars 2018 | Cesar Compadre
Château Haut Peyrat 2015
The great wine is however more precise in the design of its tannins. The expression of its fruit is purer, more juicy with more freshness and persistence. A beautiful bottle, also with just the right amount of modernity and an intelligent fidelity to the elegance and classicism that mark true Bordeaux wines.
Château Haut Peyrat, Prélude 2015
Pretty bright and deep color which suggests a good concentration. Very good second wine. Well rounded tannins, spicy, woody, well balanced flavor which does not mask the expression of the fruits. Candied aromas, pepper on the finish.
Solar wine but with freshness. Really very pleasant, very Bordeaux with a modern touch but a classic frame. A wine in its time, elegant and unpretentious with a perfect balance.